An American Beach for African Americans. I would love to say that I came up with this title myself. But in reality, it’s the title of a book by Marsha Dean Phelts, a current resident of American Beach. I had the privilege of visiting this beautiful locale during my mother daughter trip to Amelia Island, just 34 miles northeast of Jacksonville. My excursion was marked by incredible tour guides, stunning views, and a glimpse into the area’s history. If you’re on the lookout for a destination for Black History Month, look no further than American Beach. Here’s why this lesser-known Florida beach should be on your radar.
1. The Family Atmosphere
You know when you visit family or friends in a different state, and they’re excited to show you around? They might have you hop in the car and take an impromptu tour of the neighborhood. Sometimes they have funny tidbits here and there. “Oh, there’s where my mom caught me skipping class” or “that’s the bowling alley I took my wife on our first date.” These personal anecdotes make the town feel like your home too. And that’s exactly what Ron Miller’s American Beach Tour is like. As soon as we climbed into the car, we felt like we were spending time with family. For this over 60 travel aficionado, the tour was truly something remarkable.
2. Exceptional Tour Guides
Tour guide extraordinaire Ron was accompanied by his lovely wife Avis. Together, they took my daughter and me on a personalized tour around American Beach. We began on the street closest to the shore where you’ll see some of the original homes built on the beach. You can also marvel at the home that was used for shooting the Angela Bassett film Sunshine State. With the Atlantic Ocean to our left, we continued along, to our next stop: Evan’s Rendezvous. This glamorous nightclub once hosted the likes of Cab Calloway and Louis Armstrong.
Our tour guide Ron brings a personal touch to his tours, something that makes exploring with him especially wonderful. He pointed out a home on the main drag where Louis Armstrong stayed during his visit and signed one of the walls. After that, Ron told stories about an ice cream parlor that used to be across the street from Evan’s Rendezvous. He and other local children would run to Evan’s to get ice cream money from their parents. There’s something truly special about listening to someone else’s treasured memories!
During our tour, we noticed Ron had a copy of American Beach: An American Beach for African Americans in the car. My daughter excitedly told Ron and his wife that she had purchased a copy of the first day of our trip, knowing we would be seeing the beach in a couple of days. Without a second thought, Ron picked up his cell phone and called the author, Marsha Phelts. They joked about her not being ready to receive visitors for the day and then arranged for us to stop by her home. A lovely lady—she was kind enough to sign my daughter’s copy of the book! You don’t get this experience on just any solo trip.
3. An Empowering History
Back in 1935, American Beach became the first beach exclusively for African Americans in Florida. The beach first got its land legs when the president of the Afro-American Life Insurance Company, Abraham Lincoln Lewis, bought the 33 acres of land with a 1,000-foot shoreline. As Florida’s first African American millionaire, he opened the beach in hopes that the Black community would have a place to frolic, have fellowship, and feel free from discrimination. It goes without saying at that time, the popular beaches were segregated. If you’re interested in learning more about Lewis, his original home (the second on American Beach!) is still standing today, although the exterior has been remodeled.
At the end of our tour, we passed a church formerly attended by enslaved people who once lived in this area. In the back, we also saw a cemetery where members of the congregation were buried. Seeing everything from the lively main streets to the solemn cemetery reminds you that real people have lived their entire lives in this place.
4. Nature Reserves with a Storied Past
I would be remiss to talk about solo travel at American Beach without bringing up the stunning landscapes. Not far from the main street, we came upon a dune system called NaNa, the tallest natural dune in Florida and a protected landmark. Ron told us stories filled with nostalgia of MaVynne Betsch, affectionately known to all as “The Beach Lady”, a former opera singer, who regaled stages from the United States to Europe. Known for her foot-long fingernails and hair which she always wore in a braid “all the way down her back” (another personal note from Ron), MaVynne was a native of American Beach who championed its preservation for years and is a huge part of why American Beach still remains today.
Remember This Black History Month Destination
I’ve been to dozens of USA travel destinations and taken numerous guided tours, and I can say without a doubt that the only way to experience American Beach is with Ron, Avis, and Coast One Tours at your side. If you’re solo traveling to Amelia Island or Florida this summer, don’t miss the rich and complex history of American Beach. Be sure to add American Beach to your “to visit” list and Phelts’ book to your “to read” pile! When you go, tell him the Traveling Black Widow sent you. Follow me @travelingblackwidow on Instagram for stories about my upcoming travels.