Williamsburg, Virginia is a cheery small town on the U.S. east coast with picturesque views, historic buildings, and sea breezes blowing in from the bay. It’s also home to the largest American history museum in the world, known simply as Colonial Williamsburg. For white Americans, Colonial Williamsburg has been a place to experience history, but for Black Americans, the town has traditionally left behind a bad taste.
Now, I’m not usually one to visit these kinds of places, but under the leadership of Clifford Fleet, Colonial Williamsburg is aiming to change perceptions. Instead of showing just the bleak nature of slavery, the museum’s programs and entertainment are now putting Black joy on display as well. After all, these people were enslaved, but that wasn’t the entirety of their identity. I had the opportunity to take a guided tour, sponsored by Colonial Williamsburg, of this historic museum and got to enjoy all it had to offer. Here are my experiences traveling to the new-and-improved Colonial Williamsburg as a Black woman.
Day 1: A Warm Welcome to Williamsburg
From the moment I landed at the airport in Norfolk, I knew I was in for a treat! The drive from the airport to historic Williamsburg was stunning—full of scenic forests and incredible water views. Once I got into town, I couldn’t have been happier with my first stop: the Williamsburg Inn. This elegant space features fantastic art and sophisticated design, all backed up by smooth jazz playing in the background. The decor was amazing everywhere, even in the bathroom. I found myself taking my first bathroom selfie ever (see my Instagram)!
I had the pleasure of dining at the Inn’s Terrace Room on my first night. My plate was full of stuffed shrimp with crabmeat and a lush Caesar salad—YUM! The service was impeccable, and I couldn’t help feeling welcome at this wonderful locale. Then it was off to my accommodation, the cozy Williamsburg Lodge, to get ready for an exciting Friday on the town!
Day 2: A Hub for Arts and History
Day two, my first full day in Colonial Williamsburg, was really something special. I was up bright and early for breakfast at AromasWorld, then I moved on to some marvelous art exhibits.
The Art Museums of Colonial Williamsburg have several exhibits, including “I Made This,” which truly warmed my heart. The name comes from the way artist David Drake used to sign his work—etching “I made this” into the item, even though Black people weren’t supposed to be able to write. This little act of rebellion made his work extra empowering.
The rest of the exhibit features a quilt, pottery, paintings, and even furniture made by highly-skilled Black American artisans. Beyond art, you can also see silverware, metal working, and a slew of other items created by Black craftspeople. These extraordinary pieces filled me with awe at the genius, creativity, and resilience of both free and enslaved Black people in the 18th century and onward. The museum curators made every effort to include all kinds of voices and allow visitors to find meaningful connections among the exhibits.
After the art museum, I was feeling inspired and ready to finish my day in Colonial Williamsburg. Next, I made my way to Hennage Auditorium, a venue within the art museum, where I saw a beautiful performance of (re)educate. This theatrical performance illustrated how free and enslaved Black children were educated all the way back in the late 1700s. As it turns out, enslaved people were allowed to read up until the 1800s, when that basic freedom was taken away from them. Yet another great example of how Colonial Williamsburg is telling the real story of Black Americans in a compassionate light!
But the day wasn’t quite over yet—a tasty dinner was waiting for me at Christiana Campbell’s Tavern! This establishment was known to be one of George Washington’s favorites. I heard he dined there almost 100 times! I feasted on some exquisite lobster tail, trout (Thomas Jefferson’s recipe!), and spoon bread by candlelight. I also enjoyed period music from a live performer in 17th century garb. The entire atmosphere at Campbell’s is really a must-see!
Day 3: Choose Your Own Adventure
Saturday was another early start for me, but I couldn’t have been more excited. I had a quick breakfast at the Lodge (Virginia smoked ham, anyone?) and some guided tours scheduled, but besides that, the world was my oyster! The lovely team at Colonial Williamsburg packed my schedule with lots of options to experience the museum. All aboard for my final day in Virginia!
First stop: The Governor’s Palace tour. On my walk to this locale, I was amazed at the old-timey buildings in town. Almost all of them have been reconstructed and restored to their former glory. Inside the Palace, there were more than a fair share of rifles, canopy beds, and grandiose décor. On my tour, I had one of my favorite experiences of the whole trip—meeting local actress Janice Canaday. She gave me her take on Colonial Williamsburg’s mission to tell Black stories. Janice said that CEO Clifford Fleet “has an ear for the truth and a heart for the whole story.” I think this is an amazing assessment of Fleet’s work, and I applaud him for his dedication to creating a sensitive, yet accurate, representation of history.
Still lots more to see in town! After leaving the Palace, I headed back to Hennage to see another theatrical performance—this time they were staging Loquacious Lucy, a play in which an enslaved child learns to be proud of her ancestry. I wouldn’t call myself a history buff, but watching these stirring performances certainly gave me a new appreciation for learning about the past.
At lunchtime, I sat down at King’s Arms Tavern. This restaurant featured refined chophouse fare that definitely made my mouth water! The culinary team at this establishment has researched and created dishes specially for Black History Month, and they were gracious enough to offer us suggestions and cater to allergies. Exceptional service!
As much as I loved being immersed in the history, culture, and food of the area, a long day of sightseeing requires a break (especially since we’re talking about over 60 travel here!). I was so excited to get myself to the Spa of Colonial Williamsburg and put an exclamation point on my trip. I got the 21st Century Recharge—reiki, hyaluronic acid, and exfoliation, OH MY! Truly heaven on earth.
Day 4: Farewell to Historic Virginia
Before I knew it, I was having my last dinner in Colonial Williamsburg at Blue Talon Bistro. When I woke up in the morning to catch my midday flight, I found myself reflecting on all the ways Colonial Williamsburg has achieved its mission to celebrate Black history. For one, the Colonial Williamsburg team has prioritized lots of programs in honor of Black History Month—from stage plays to art exhibits. These events show that slavery is a part of the area’s history, but there are aspects of the Black experience that can (and should) be celebrated. All in all, I found the museum is making a concerted effort to be sensitive and inclusive in presenting Black contributions to American history, without ever glorifying the oppressor.
I know how difficult it can be for Black people to visit a place where so many of our ancestors were subject to suffering. But I believe with the new efforts to inclusion and telling all stories with grace, Colonial Williamsburg is welcoming to people of all races. Any visitor can feel enlightened and uplifted by these stories. I loved my Virginia getaway and hope I’ve encouraged you to open your mind to new ways of celebrating history while respecting those who lived through it.